2012 - 2015 Honda Civic Si / Acura ILX Battery Relocation Kit

  • Sale
  • Regular price $150

PRL Motorsports Battery relocation kit for 2012 - 2015 Civic SI

We've solved every problem that you can have when doing a battery relocation to fit a cold air intake on the 9th gen Civic Si. There is no need for stretched stretched wires, clearance issues with clutch lines, or incomplete parts that make installation a hassle  This kit covers all of those problems for you; We include everything you need in this kit to make your battery relocation work properly. The only modification you need to do your car is open up the wiring loom for the starter harness about 4-5 inches and pulling the one wire further out of the harness to allow it to plug in.

Kit includes:

  • Battery relocation tray made from 11 gauge steel and finished with textured black powdercoat
  • Battery tie down plate that reuses your factory J hooks, but offsets them to allow the battery to sit closer to the coolant overflow bottle.
  • Full replacement braided stainless clutch line to replace the factory clutch line that WILL eventually rub through your battery casing if you don’t replace it
  • Battery Terminal Extension block to move the positive battery terminal into a better position to take tension off of your factory wiring harness
  • Modified transmission bracket to allow for clearance of battery, but still hold wiring harness in it’s proper position.
  • all hardware needed to install the battery box.

Install Notes:

  • Once the original battery box has been removed, remove factory clutch line and bracket from the transmission and install replacement clutch line into slave cylinder using supplied adapter fitting.  Connect replacement clutch line to slave cylinder and tighten hose end onto the previously installed fitting.
  • Install replacement Transmission bracket on to the front of the transmission where the original one was removed. Torque bolts to 20 ft.-lbs. Clip wiring harness back into place.
  • Install battery relocation tray using original hardware, 1 bolt will go into side of frame rail, 2 will go into top of frame rail.  Leave these bolts loose until you get the M6 bolt and Nylock nut inserted through ECU bracket.  Once all bolts are in, tighten everything down.
  • Run new clutch line through rubber grommet, underneath battery tray and up to connection on the drivers side frame rail.  Insert female end of the new clutch line through the bracket on the frame rail and loosely install tubing nut into female side of clutch line.
  • At this point, check to make sure that new clutch line is clear of the clutch fork on the transmission, if not, twist the line so that the line clears the clutch fork.  once everything is in a good position that won’t cause interference with the clutch fork operation, install the factory retaining clip that holds the clutch line into the bracket. Tighten down tubing nut into the female fitting with 2 wrenches.
  • Install battery into tray 180 degrees opposite of how it was positioned in the car originally.
  • place terminal extension on positive terminal and tighten M6 cap screw to clamp it on the battery post
  • You’ll need to remove the brown plastic harness clip from the starter harness and open up the wiring loom about 4-5 inches and pull connector that goes to core support out of the harness to enable it to reach.
  • factory j-hooks will go through holes on the ears sticking from side of battery box and you’ll use the new supplied battery tie down plate to hold battery in place.
  • Negative terminal should reach without modification.
  • Positive terminal will reach battery by removing it from the clip on the ecu bracket.